City in Dalmatia – Split
01 · Overview and trip planning
Split is the rare city where a Roman monument is not fenced off but lived in.
The emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace here around 300 AD, and the town later grew inside its walls, so laundry lines, cafés and family flats now share the stones with temples and a cathedral that was once his mausoleum.
It is also a working city of around 160,000 people, with a football club locals treat like a religion, a morning market, a busy port and a pine-covered hill at the end of the peninsula. That mix is why Split works for a short city break and as a base: the ferries to Brač, Hvar, Šolta and Vis leave a few minutes' walk from the palace gates.
02 · Best things to do
Ranked by what matters most on a first visit.
Start at the Peristyle, the colonnaded courtyard at the heart of the palace, then step into the round Vestibule, where klapa singers sometimes perform in summer. Wander the lanes towards the four gates: Golden, Silver, Iron and Bronze. The streets are free and open day and night, so come back after dark when the stone glows under the lamps.
The cathedral was Diocletian's own mausoleum before it became a church, which makes it one of the oldest buildings in the world still used as a cathedral. Climb the Romanesque bell tower for the best view over the palace roofs and the harbour; the steps are steep and narrow near the top.
The vaulted halls under the palace kept the emperor's floors level and today show the original layout better than anything above ground. The central passage from the Riva is free and lined with craft stalls; the side halls are ticketed. Game of Thrones fans will recognise them as Daenerys's dragon dungeon.
Split's green lung covers the tip of the peninsula. Climb the steps from Varoš to Vidilica café for the classic view over the city, then carry on through the pines to Telegrin, the 178 m summit, or follow the shore path past small chapels, including St Jerome's, built into the rock.
A sandy, shallow bay ten minutes' walk east of the palace. It is where locals play picigin, splashing to keep a small ball in the air without letting it touch the water. It gets crowded on summer afternoons, so go early or come in the evening when the bars open.
The palm-lined waterfront is Split's living room, best for a morning coffee or an evening walk. Behind it, Narodni trg (locals call it Pjaca) and Fruit Square show the Venetian-era town that grew beyond the palace walls.
Croatia's best-known sculptor, Ivan Meštrović, built this villa below Marjan as his summer home. His bronzes and marbles fill the rooms and the sea-facing garden; the same ticket covers Kaštilac, a short walk away, with his carved wooden panels of the life of Christ.
Meštrović's giant bronze of the 10th-century bishop stands outside the Golden Gate. Rub his big toe, polished gold by millions of hands, for luck.
Rather go with a local guide? See guided tours of Split on GetYourGuide.
04 · Where to eat and drink
Konoba
Near Matejuška, west of the Riva
Order: The day's fish, chosen from the tray and grilled whole.
Why go: Listed in the 2026 MICHELIN Guide, yet still a simple family-style konoba. Book ahead.
Small bistro
Old town, Kružićeva street
Order: Whatever is chalked up that day; the menu follows the market.
Why go: A handful of seats and a tiny kitchen cooking home-style Dalmatian food inside the palace. Expect a short wait.
Wine bar and bistro
Old town, Marulićeva 2
Order: Pašticada croquettes, then pan-fried sea bass, with a glass of Croatian wine.
Why go: One of the best places to taste Croatian wine by the glass, with food to match. In the 2026 MICHELIN Guide.
Restaurant and wine bar
Old town, Domaldova 8
Order: Soparnik and small plates to share, octopus or black risotto.
Why go: A lively, modern take on local food with a strong Croatian wine list. Reserve for dinner.
Restaurant
Tolstojeva, a short walk north of the centre
Order: Pasta, game stews and the tasting menu.
Why go: Regional cooking with a creative edge, away from the tourist strip. In the 2026 MICHELIN Guide.
Grill takeaway
Varoš, Matošića 1
Order: Ćevapi in somun bread with ajvar and kajmak.
Why go: Split's favourite cheap grill: quick, filling and cash only.
Bakery
Obrov 6, near the fish market
Order: Sourdough loaves and sweet or savoury pastries.
Why go: Small-batch baking, mornings only (Monday to Saturday), and it sells out.
Market
Off Marmontova, west of the palace
Order: Look, don't cook: come to see the morning catch, then eat at a konoba nearby.
Why go: A 19th-century market hall that still sets the rhythm of the city's kitchens.
Opening days change with the season, so check or book ahead.
05 · Practical travel information
| Cathedral and bell tower | about €7 |
|---|---|
| Palace cellars, side halls | about €10 |
| Meštrović Gallery with Kaštilac | €12 |
| Klis Fortress | about €12 |
| Ferry Split to Supetar, foot passenger | about €6.50 |
| Airport shuttle bus | about €8–10 |
Prices checked in October 2026; they change every season.
06 · Itineraries and FAQs
For a stopover or a day off the ferry.
The city at a gentler pace.
Add the best day trips.
first-time visitors without a car who want to step out into the sights; lively and noisy in summer
quieter stone lanes right next to the old town and the steps up to Marjan
beach days and nightlife, a ten-minute walk from the palace
calmer, greener streets with sea views below Marjan, close to the Meštrović Gallery
families and drivers who want a long beach, newer apartments and easier parking
Tours and getting around
Split is the easiest place to start a day trip: by boat to Hvar, Brač or the Blue Cave on Biševo, by road to Krka National Park or Trogir, or rafting on the Cetina river near Omiš. In the old town, walking tours cover the palace's history and its Game of Thrones filming spots.
You won't need a car in the city; the old town is pedestrian and parking is limited. Rent one for day trips to Krka, Trogir or Klis, or a scooter for the beaches. To reach the islands on your own schedule, rent a boat, with or without a skipper.
About 30 minutes by car or bus
A small walled town on an islet, also UNESCO-listed, with a fine cathedral portal and a waterfront lined with yachts.
About 20 minutes by car
A medieval fortress on a ridge above Split, used as Meereen in Game of Thrones, with wide views to the coast.
About an hour by car
Waterfalls and wooden walkways through the river canyon; go early in summer.
50 minutes by ferry
Supetar is the closest island town; Bol and the Zlatni Rat beach are an hour's drive across the island or a direct catamaran.
About an hour by catamaran
Hvar Town's harbour, fortress and lanes make an easy day by catamaran.
Ferry or catamaran
The farthest of the central islands, wilder and quieter; better for a night or two than a rushed day.
About 30 minutes by car
Rafting, canyoning or a zipline in the canyon behind the little town of Omiš.
Yes. Few places let you live inside a Roman palace, swim in town and catch a ferry to an island in the same day. It is also one of the easiest bases on the coast if you don't have a car.
Two days for the city itself, three or four with day trips. If you are island hopping, one night at the start or end is enough.
Not in the city. The centre is pedestrian and parking is limited. Rent one only for day trips to Krka, Klis or Trogir, or use buses and tours.
Take the airport shuttle bus to the main bus station by the port (30–40 minutes), local bus 37 or 38 (cheaper but slower), or a taxi or ride-hailing car (about 30 minutes).
Yes, the palace streets, the Peristyle and the central cellar passage are free and open all day and night. The cathedral, bell tower, side cellar halls and Temple of Jupiter have separate tickets.
Bačvice for sand, shallow water and atmosphere; Kašjuni below Marjan for clearer water and fewer people; Žnjan for a long beach with space for families.
Stay in Split for city life, food and easy transport, and on Hvar for a slower island holiday. Many people do two nights in Split and two or three on an island.
Yes, in season. Passenger catamarans run along the coast via Hvar and Korčula, and some also stop on Mljet. It takes longer than driving but is the more scenic way.
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