Split travel guide
Walking Veli Varoš: Split's Historic Fishermen's Quarter
Veli Varoš is the old fishermen's and farmers' quarter on the slope west of the Riva, five minutes from the palace and a world away from the cruise crowds. This page tells you what the quarter is, a short walk through it, where to eat and what to know if you stay there.
While figuring out your Varoš walk is a critical piece of the puzzle, you will need to plan the rest of your itinerary, dining slots and sightseeing routes. Before you set out, make sure to read our definitive Split travel guide to map out your entire stay.
Split's oldest suburb
When Split's people first settled outside the palace walls, Varoš was one of the places they went. For centuries it was home to the city's fishermen and the farmers who worked the slopes of Marjan, and it became a symbol of Split's sardine fishermen.
Today it is a quiet residential quarter of steep stone lanes, washing between windows and small konobas. It is the easiest way to see how Split lived before tourism.
A short walk through Varoš
- Matejuška: start at the little fishing harbour at the west end of the Riva, where boats still unload.
- The lanes: climb into Varoš behind the harbour. Wander rather than follow a route; the lanes are short and all lead uphill.
- Church of the Holy Cross: the quarter's parish church, built between 1680 and 1685 to replace an older church that stood further down the slope.
- St Nicholas: a small medieval church in the lanes, one of several old chapels on this side of the city.
- Prva Vidilica: finish up the steps at the classic viewpoint over the city, with the old Jewish cemetery behind it. From the Riva it takes 15 to 20 minutes, mostly steps.
Carry on into the pines from Vidilica with our Marjan hill guide.
The Holy Cross festival
Every May, Varoš celebrates its patron, the Holy Cross, with a traditional three-day folk festival, usually around the Feast of St Domnius. See the Split Tourist Board events calendar for this year's dates.
Where to eat in and near Varoš
- Konoba Fetivi (Tomića stine 4, near Matejuška): the day's fish, chosen from the tray and grilled whole. Listed in the 2026 MICHELIN Guide; book ahead in summer. MICHELIN Guide
- Kantun Paulina (Matošića 1): ćevapi in somun bread with ajvar and kajmak from a long-running takeaway counter; bring cash to be safe.
More picks in our guide to the best konobas in Split. Not sure what to order? Our Dalmatian food checklist covers the dishes to try.
Staying in Varoš
- Why stay: old stone lanes and small konobas, mostly quiet at night, 5 minutes from the palace.
- Who it suits: couples and walkers who want character close to the centre.
- The catch: very little parking, and the lanes are steep steps, so it is hard with a pram or heavy luggage.
Compare it with the other areas in where to stay in Split.
Tips for walking Varoš
- Shoes: wear something with grip; the stone steps are polished smooth.
- Respect: people live here, so keep voices down in the lanes, especially at night.
- Best light: late afternoon, then sunset on the harbour wall at Matejuška.
For the loudest side of local Split, catch a match at Poljud, north-west of the old town: see our guide to seeing a Hajduk Split match at Poljud stadium.
What to plan next for your trip
Once you have sorted out your Varoš walk, it's time to explore the rest of Dalmatia - Split. From Vidilica, carry on into the pines with our guide to Marjan hill. If you are thinking of staying here, compare where to stay in Split.